# Preventing bad habits before they happen



## danecolor (Nov 22, 2010)

i was just reading through the "greatest training obstacles" thread and it made me think. i will be getting a puppy within the next couple of years and, being one of those people who researches everything to death, i am already wondering about how to prevent difficult behavior problems from the beginning. i have only ever rescued young dogs, so i have never raised a puppy "from scratch".

to those who are old hands at training and socialization of pups - what can be done to prevent things such as fearfulness, leash reactivity, over exuberance when meeting dogs and people, dog aggression, etc? teaching basic "manners" like loose-leash walking, respecting thresholds, and taking food gently, etc are all within my grasp, as are basic commands like, sit, down, and leave it. i have also had some experience with reducing problem behaviors when they crop up, but when i get my first puppy, i would like to prevent problems from happening in the first place. 

anyone care to inform me? :smile:


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## DaneMama (Jun 27, 2008)

First off...where do you plan to get a new puppy? I'm pretty sure you've said from a breeder in the past, right? 

If so, I would find a breeder that socializes their pups from a very early age. Most breeders that I know refuse to have people come to their property before a certain age, etc. But socialization starts from the moment they are born. A breeder must be devoted to handling each puppy extensively BUT in the proper way. Most breeders I know don't give this kind of interaction to their pups even if they are "reputable" breeders. Handling means, touching the feet, ears, MOUTHS, tummies, putting them on their backs, etc, etc. Most puppies start handling exercises in a puppy socialization class but handling really needs to start from day one. Handling isn't just snuggling, cuddling and smooching on the puppies. If puppies are subjected to a routine physical "exam" several times a day for 8 weeks straight...that gives them mad skills in tolerating being handled. Not only the breeder themselves should handle these puppies, but people of all sorts (obviously in a clean way) so that fear towards people is a very low risk. Also, socialization with other dogs is also key but of course being safe about it. _*Most trainers and behaviorists would rather risk infection with disease and socialize the heck out of puppies rather than risk life long behavioral problems that could very well mean that dog ends up in a shelter or PTS.*_

Find a breeder that already starts practicing impulse control, NILIF, basic training/cues, potty training (this includes the proper "puppy environment" per Ian Dunbar that maximizes potty training- a good breeder knows exactly what this is), clicker training, etc. Ideally a puppy should leave the breeders house pretty well potty trained with basic commands IMHO. A breeder that is responsible prepares h/h puppies as much as humanly possible to enter the world with a strong foundation. If a puppy leaves the breeders house with these skills, the chance of it being re-homed/PTS due to behavioral problems goes way down. A breeder should invest a huge amount of time into h/h puppies. 

Once you get the puppy, take it everywhere and anywhere you can. Make sure that every experience that puppy has is a good and positive experience to the best of your ability. Enroll into a puppy socialization class, or several if you can find them. Continue to enroll in classes until that dog is as well trained as you'd like it to be. It would be awesome to get one into competitive obedience or a dog sport. Doing something with your dogs is highly rewarding! BUT...make sure that whatever class you enroll in, trainer that you work with uses 100% positive reinforcement training. Any trainer that calls themselves a "balanced" trainer you should thank them for their time and find a different one. These trainers make themselves appear to be positive but they can use just as many aversive techniques as their positive ones. I'm not saying punishment is bad, just that it has to be appropriate and non coercive. 

You can also prepare yourself by reading, reading and doing more reading. Here's a list of books that I would recommend reading...even if the subject is a specific problem, you never know when that information will become handy:

http://www.siriuspup.com/pdfs/BEFOREphotos.pdf

http://www.dogstardaily.com/files/AFTER You Get Your Puppy.pdf

Amazon.com: How to be the Leader of the Pack...And have Your Dog Love You For It. (9781891767029): Patricia B. McConnell Ph.D.: Books

Amazon.com: The Puppy Primer (9781891767135): Patricia B. McConnell, Ph.D., Brenda Scidmore: Books

Amazon.com: The Other End of the Leash: Why We Do What We Do Around Dogs (9780345446787): Patricia B. McConnell: Books

Amazon.com: Feeling Outnumbered? How to Manage and Enjoy Your Multi-Dog Household. (9781891767067): Karen B. London Ph.D., Patricia B. McConnell Ph.D.: Books

Amazon.com: Feisty Fido: Help for the Leash-Reactive Dog (9781891767074): Patricia B. McConnell Ph.D., Karen B. London Ph.D.: Books


Hope this helps!!! Can't wait to see another squishy (Dane?) puppy face here on DFC :yay:


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## danecolor (Nov 22, 2010)

_Awesome_ response, thank you so much! the puppy will be from a breeder and definitely a Dane :biggrin:

i have not started looking into breeders with real depth yet but definitely good advice for when i do!

i have Ian Dunbar's "before" and "after" you get your puppy books and i love them. I even took notes while reading them :redface:

the whole socialization aspect definitely overwhelms me to think about sometimes. it seems like such a short window to expose a pup to so much, and then there is the worry that certain experiences could go wrong and permanently affect the puppy. it sounds a lot less overwhelming to just think about taking the pup everywhere possible, though. i have a list of good places to bring a puppy for socialization already, so that sounds doable.

i know there are no guarantees, but do you think a puppy who has that strong foundation coming from the breeder will "turn out all right" as long as the owner exposes them to as many different people/dogs/scenarios as possible while keeping the experiences positive? are there any huge things to avoid to prevent behavioral issues once the pup is in the owner's care?

awesome books suggestions by the way, those will definitely make good summer reading :smile:

thanks again for the great response!


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## DaneMama (Jun 27, 2008)

danecolor said:


> _Awesome_ response, thank you so much! the puppy will be from a breeder and definitely a Dane :biggrin:
> 
> i have not started looking into breeders with real depth yet but definitely good advice for when i do!


What are you looking for from a breeder? And I'm always happy to help!!!



> i have Ian Dunbar's "before" and "after" you get your puppy books and i love them. I even took notes while reading them :redface:


You're already 100X more prepared than the majority of new puppy owners out there. Kudos to you!



> the whole socialization aspect definitely overwhelms me to think about sometimes. it seems like such a short window to expose a pup to so much, and then there is the worry that certain experiences could go wrong and permanently affect the puppy. it sounds a lot less overwhelming to just think about taking the pup everywhere possible, though. i have a list of good places to bring a puppy for socialization already, so that sounds doable.


Yes, I know how you feel. That is why is stress it so much to find a breeder that starts this socialization process the proper way from day one, when the window of opportunity opens (It closes about 4 months of age....for most dogs). They are very few and far between, I'd almost say that they are far more rare than those who do full health testing. Not only do most dog owners have no clue how to raise a dog, communicate properly with them, train them, etc...same goes for breeders. It would be awesome for breeders to only be trainers and behaviorists. That would ensure that nearly every single puppy would be a stable, well prepared, even tempered dog by the time it is re-homed to its new owner. I'm certainly not saying that socialization just ends when they leave the breeder...socialization NEVER really ends. Every situation in life should be seen as an opportunity to socialize and train your dog. The work certainly doesn't end just there with the breeder, it continues with the new parents....

And to be quite honest....You'll be ITCHING to take that sweet baby with you everywhere. You'll start calling businesses up before you go there asking if they allow dogs inside their stores, if restaurants will allow dogs on their patios, if your friends will allow you to bring your puppy to their house. 



> i know there are no guarantees, but do you think a puppy who has that strong foundation coming from the breeder will "turn out all right" as long as the owner exposes them to as many different people/dogs/scenarios as possible while keeping the experiences positive? are there any huge things to avoid to prevent behavioral issues once the pup is in the owner's care?


I do. Especially from a breeder that I've painted an example of in my above post. I don't believe that if both parents have wonderful temperaments that the puppy will just naturally have one as well. Every dog is different. While temperament is very important in the parents its about nature vs nurture. I believe the parental foundation is important...BUT I think the nurture that puppy receives every moment its alive after the moment its born is far more important. Thats why breeders must use careful screenings and be available for life long support (and the idea that every breeder must be a trainer/behavior expert is even more important- its like having a free trainer in your "toolbox" for training a dog you get from them). 



> awesome books suggestions by the way, those will definitely make good summer reading :smile:
> 
> thanks again for the great response!


Of course :thumb:

Another piece of advice is to work equally with Riley during this time as well. Sometimes people get so lovestruck by their new puppy that they unknowingly neglect their current dog...even if only by a very small amount. Its important to let Riley know that she is still number one dog (since she was there first). Don't intervene too often when she "schools" the puppy, as long as its appropriate and not "bullying". She can teach your new pup probably just as much as you can, without saying a word. I'm certainly not saying that she will potty train the kid for ya, but she will teach her important lessons in the language of "Dog" that you can only try and mimic!


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## RawFedDogs (Jun 16, 2008)

You are spending a lot of energy worrying about problems you willl probably never have. Puppies are much easier than older dogs. You don't have to undo bad stuff they have already learned. You say you know how to reduce problems once they show up. Well in this case, thats exactly what you do. When a problem crops up, reduce it .... you will catch the problem in its infancy and it'll be easy to stop in most cases. As Natalie says, "Socialize early" ... that can't be overstressed. Let the pup experience as much as possible as soon as possible and try your best to make all experiences positive. If one isn't don't get all upset about it. Those things will happen in spite of everything you can do to prevent it. You'll do fine. Don't worry so much. Worry is your enemy. Positive confidence is your friend.


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## bernadettelevis (Feb 2, 2011)

I don't have as much experience in training as Danemama and RFD, but my dog socializing it was the most important thing for me.

SOOOO many people told me not to get a weimaraner because of potential aggression towards people and other dogs...:/ 

So when i got my puppy, i took it EVERYWHERE with me! I got to see my horse from day one. I took him with me to university, shopping malls, friends places, restaurants, cafes, parks and so on. Now he's almost 2 and he doesn'T have a problem anywhere! Last week i was visiting a friend in vienna and of course i took the dog with me. There where so many people and new things and noises but he wasn't stressed at all! Also it breaks my heart when i see dogs at the shopping mall that are so stressed, well my dog is used to it and he loves it! New people, new smells...

Fortunately i have an off-leash area right next to where i live, so i also got to introduce him to as many dogs as possible.

And what also was important to me, to introduce him to ducks, cats, rabbits and so on. So now i can go where ever without a leash, without him running off chasing something. He's interested, but he always comes when i call .

Good luck


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## Caty M (Aug 13, 2010)

I brought Bishop everywhere too and now he isn't scared of anything really. Some people say NOT to bring the dog anywhere though until it's around 16-20 weeks.. because of getting parvo etc. Any advice on that? I am a bit iffy on bringing my new puppy to the dog park right away. We did with Bishop but I didn't do much reading on vaccination and puppy diseases and this time around I have done probably too much and now I am terrified.


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## DaneMama (Jun 27, 2008)

Oh no, please don't give into the propaganda about waiting to socialize puppies until theyre done with their shots! 

Like I said earlier.....the risk of having an under socialized dog is a far greater threat that can turn into a LIFE LONG behavioral problem compared to the risk or parvo/distemper which are often times curable in young, healthy puppies- catching it early is vital. While these diseases are a risk, your pup should be just fine because he has immunity from mom initially and all through the boostering process. As long as your conscious of where you take them (I'm not a fan of most dog parks for young pups because there are some dogs there that can have a very negative effect which is not what you want to expose your puppy to).


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## danecolor (Nov 22, 2010)

DaneMama said:


> What are you looking for from a breeder? And I'm always happy to help!!!


i do have a shortlist of breeders that i have found over the years who may eventually be candidates, but i am definitely still looking. i would love to have a breeder putting a variety of titles on their dogs (rally, obedience, CGC), doing therapy work, and/or being very active and involved with their dogs. conformation showing isn't my highest priority but if the breeder does show, i would want to see their dogs being owner handled and finishing quickly. of course, full health testing with good results is an absolute must. definitely no kennel situations. i want all breeding dogs to live inside as pets full time and all puppies to be raised in the house exclusively. i would also like to see the breeder working on training and socialization from the beginning with their puppies. i have a definite soft spot for the non-standard colors, but color is my last priority. i also do not like to see extensive linebreeding/inbreeding. that's all i can think of off the top of my head, but everything else is pretty negotiable. 



DaneMama said:


> And to be quite honest....You'll be ITCHING to take that sweet baby with you everywhere. You'll start calling businesses up before you go there asking if they allow dogs inside their stores, if restaurants will allow dogs on their patios, if your friends will allow you to bring your puppy to their house.


oh believe me, i have puppy fever so badly that i have an entire notebook devoted to puppy preparation :redface: . i already have a whole page devoted to local places i can bring a puppy! it is going to be so hard for me to wait until i am actually in a good situation to bring in a puppy but when the day comes, it will be worth it.




DaneMama said:


> Another piece of advice is to work equally with Riley during this time as well. Sometimes people get so lovestruck by their new puppy that they unknowingly neglect their current dog...even if only by a very small amount. Its important to let Riley know that she is still number one dog (since she was there first). Don't intervene too often when she "schools" the puppy, as long as its appropriate and not "bullying". She can teach your new pup probably just as much as you can, without saying a word. I'm certainly not saying that she will potty train the kid for ya, but she will teach her important lessons in the language of "Dog" that you can only try and mimic!


great advice once again, thank you :thumb:



RawFedDogs said:


> You are spending a lot of energy worrying about problems you willl probably never have. Puppies are much easier than older dogs. You don't have to undo bad stuff they have already learned. You say you know how to reduce problems once they show up. Well in this case, thats exactly what you do. When a problem crops up, reduce it .... you will catch the problem in its infancy and it'll be easy to stop in most cases. As Natalie says, "Socialize early" ... that can't be overstressed. Let the pup experience as much as possible as soon as possible and try your best to make all experiences positive. If one isn't don't get all upset about it. Those things will happen in spite of everything you can do to prevent it. You'll do fine. Don't worry so much. Worry is your enemy. Positive confidence is your friend.


i know, i am a worrier and a preparer by nature. very good advice though, i will remember to relax and not over complicate things. i am glad to hear that puppies are much easier, that's a bit of a relief. i do wonder though - how do puppy shots and socialization mesh? when is it safe enough to take the puppy out to meet dogs and people, etc?


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## DaneMama (Jun 27, 2008)

As long as you keep up with vaccinations in the beginning (8,12 and 16 weeks) your pup will be safe to go most places...just don't go anywhere with rabid animals! Dog parks I'm not the biggest fan of because you never know who will be there which there's a chance for a bad situation. 

I would find a group of people, dog club, etc and get together as often as possible. Make sure almost every single interaction with a dog/person is a positive one.


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## Caty M (Aug 13, 2010)

Well with Bishop I never really even considered giving him his vax's. I have had two kitties die in 5 years of vaccine fibrosarcoma. He got his first 8 week shot from the breeder and that's it.. never a problem. I might have just been lucky, I don't know. I am looking into 'natural rearing' and nosodes for the IG. I know that these puppy diseases can be fatal and there are pros and cons of everything.. but I just can't justify the offchance it might get a mostly curable disease like parvo when I am exposing the dog to the risk of cancer etc. Especially after what happened to my cats.

If you look online there is actually a lot of breeders who don't vaccinate at all. I just don't know what I am going to do still. There are so many things to weigh..

Do you mean a bad situation at the park in like an aggressive dog towards the puppy? Which might set them up for future fear issues?


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## Caty M (Aug 13, 2010)

I might be overreacting, too. It's just everywhere you read on the internet it's 'my puppy has parvo!' and half the time it's had its shots. Is the risk of having a fearful dog really worse than getting parvo? It seems like a common viral disease.


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## DaneMama (Jun 27, 2008)

IMHO yes, having a fearful dog is worse because it's something you'll have to deal with for it's entire life. I personally don't see a whole lot of people on any of the dog forums I belong to post up saying that their pups have parvo...from my experience a LOT of the puppies we saw at the low cost clinic were parvo puppies- and everytime they hadn't had their shots. I do see quite a few people post on yahoo answers about it...but again IMHO people who ask yahoo their questions typically aren't that bright. 

You never know who is going to be at a dog park. Maybe people overlook so many behavioral issues their dogs commonly show at the dog park OR they think their dogs are having fun when really they aren't or the dogs their playing with aren't. It all depends, just be prepared to protect your puppy with body blocks and know the body language that tells you when something is just too much for them. It's sad how many people I see at the dog park watching their pup being beat up or bullied or chased and they think the pup is having fun. I'm not saying dog parks are evil and stay away, just be prepared to encounter any situation there.


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## Caty M (Aug 13, 2010)

How many of these parvo puppies were fed a proper diet?.. I'm betting not many. Not that I think raw is a cure-all by any means but I do think that feeding a proper diet does have an effect on the immune system.

*I* have been bit by a dog at the dog park.. a bichon-mix. For no reason, either. It just ran up and bit the back of my leg. For the most part though I think it's a positive experience for my dog and he LOVES going. If I say 'dog park!' he goes nuts.


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## SpooOwner (Oct 1, 2010)

Re: Socialization - remember to introduce the pup to people holding umbrellas and people with suitcases. Most people remember to expose the dog to people of different ethnicities, gender, and age, but forget the little things like hoodies, hats, walkers, wheelchairs, bikes, skateboards, facial hair.

Re: Finding a good breeder - I see good breeders (and good dogs needing rehoming) on forums such as TrackingPoodle and AgilityPoodle. If you're looking for another Dane, you might try similar breed-specific sport forums.

Re: Parvo - undersocialization is a much bigger issue. Just be smart about where you take a new puppy and stay away from unknown dogs.


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## Maxy24 (Mar 5, 2011)

Like everyone else has said, socialization is super important. Not just to people and dogs but to different sounds and scenarios (beaches, woods, parades, parks, anything dog friendly). Hang out at bus stops for ultimate child socialization.
I have a fearful dog who is fearful of strangers, we got him at 10 weeks old and he was already like this, we should have done more to help him but it was more like fixing a fearful adult than standard puppy socialization (since he wouldn't go near strangers). It has gotten worse over time, for him it's more genetic than a lack of socialization. But he acts under-socialized and I've got to tell you it's not enjoyable. I have to be on constant alert in public because if a child were to run up to him and reach for him I can't say for sure that he wouldn't bite, he hasn't tried it but he tends to go closer to scary things than he should and then finds himself WAY too close when they finally notice him. When people come over he goes insane barking at them. And more than anything I just feel bad for him, he's the type who WANTS to check the person out but is just so nervous. He approaches but if they shift or cough he nearly jumps out of his skin. So do your dog a favor and socialize. 

Again, as was said, handle him all over. Tucker is really awesome in that I have no issues cutting his nails, checking his ears, brushing everything including his tail and belly, and brushing his teeth. He actually loves to be on his back and asks to be put on it (why he doesn't do it himself is beyond me) and get rub downs. It's really helpful for things like checking for ticks.

And finally, decide what the rules are going to be from day one. Is he allowed on furniture or not. If you don't want him to jump up don't ever let him. Don't wait until he's big enough for it to be a problem to stop it. Teach him what you would like him to do. Don't let stealing become a problem to teach a leave it and drop it. Don't let bad habits form. Puppy proof and introduce tempting items (like shoes) only when under CLOSE supervision so you can prevent him from trying to pick them up. And make sure everyone is on the same page as far as the rules and what to do when the dog does things like nipping or chewing furniture.


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## SerenityFL (Sep 28, 2010)

Yes, socialization is important but keep two things in mind:

a) some dog parks will not allow your dog if they don't have all of their vaccinations. 
b) what Natalie said about a possible negative reaction. That happened to us when the hoodlums were younger. One dog would NOT leave Sakari alone and she had a very negative experience because of it. It set us back a ways. She's now the one who I trust the most to meet new dogs but there is still that initial anxiety from her...especially if the dog is young and full of energy. I don't know what Shasta's problem is with meeting dogs, he's never had a bad experience. But we are taking a few steps back with him because he apparently thinks he rules the roost these days. Which is why we are currently tethered via leash and he goes where I go, when I go, end of story. 

If you do go to the dog park, pick the people who are actually paying attention to their dogs, working or playing with their dogs. Don't bother with those who are 300 yards away, talking to other humans, backs turned to their own dogs, ignoring them. I don't trust people like that, (ie: dog who wouldn't leave Sakari alone..where was the owner? Oh, that's right, sitting down on a bench 50 feet away, flapping her gums and not paying attention at all.)

As for what Maxy said about the furniture...I know a lot of people allow it and some people don't. I started off not allowing it, then I decided to allow it after Princess Sakari got spayed and had her episode...and I had some unruly dogs because of it. In this new place, they are not allowed on the furniture. Despite Shasta thinking, (in the yard), that he doesn't have to listen, in the house, ever since I have ceased the bed and couch allowance, their behaviors are improving. Something to think about.

With puppies, you must remain constantly vigilant. You cannot turn your back for even a second. You can't sit at your computer and type out long winded posts on a dog chat forum, not focusing on your puppy while you do that, and, when coming up for air, be surprised that things are not the way you left them. (Not that I know this, or anything, from personal experience...ahem.) It takes mere seconds to piddle on the floor, it takes mere seconds to grab a shoe and chomp it to the point of ruin, it takes mere seconds for them to stick their heads where they don't belong...puppies may be easier to train and prevent problems but they can be exhausting. (Times two, in some cases.) But, if you do put in all of that effort in the beginning, constant vigilance, on top of the "misbehavior" for lack of a better word, keeping a schedule, laying down the rules right from the start and being consistent...it's so worth it.

Edit: Oh, and always, be fair to the puppy. (I know you know this.) Make sure they actually know what the command is before you "correct" them in whatever way you "correct" them be it positive reinforcement or a "No" or whatever. They have to know what it means....cause in the beginning, as I've said on here before, all you're going to sound like is Charlie Brown's teacher.


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## luvMyBRT (Mar 8, 2010)

As far a socializing your young pup before all his/her shots are done you can always sign up for a puppy playgroup/class/school where all the puppies are required to be utd on all their puppy shots. I did that with Duncan as well as taking him everywhere....to Home Depot, all pet stores (however I did carry him when he was real little), Tractor Supply stores, etc. I would also take him to walk down town where it was usually really busy with people. I would sit outside at a mall area which was full of people. Those kind of things.....

Take your puppy through the car wash, take them with you when you get your car oil changed.....


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## SerenityFL (Sep 28, 2010)

Forgot to add, try to make each new adventure a positive experience. If the puppy gets scared, don't coddle them, they'll think it's ok to act like that. Just keep working at it.

With my hoodlums, they were dumped in the middle of traffic when they were young. Right in the middle of traffic. Their sibling was hit by a car and killed while they ran around its body...that kind of "dumped in the middle of traffic".

They are scared of cars and petrified of loud, large trucks, (semis, cement trucks, delivery trucks, etc.)

Where I lived before, I did not have the opportunity to work on that. Now I do. We go for walks along the sidewalk in my neighborhood. The street is fairly busy. Lots of trucks passing by.

I have taken to bringing a crap load of treats. We walk along, when I hear a truck coming, either direction, I'll stop them and get them to focus on the treats. I might make them work for one treat, (meaning, keep it tucked in my hand with just a little end poking out so they see it and have to work at it to get it), or I might do treat after treat after treat to try to keep their focus on me and the treats. 

We just started so naturally, they still cringe when a truck goes by, (Shasta), or every single car, (Sakari), but they are slowly, slowly getting better and gaining some confidence in that arena. To me it's like anything else...albeit they had a terrible experience from their puppyhood with traffic so it might take longer but the same rules apply: Get them out there, have them experience it and if they show fear, have something on hand for them to focus on, you and whatever it is, and turn it in to something positive. I don't want them to ever run out in to traffic, (don't think I'm going to have that problem), but I want them comfortable enough that we can walk without them darting between my legs, around each other, trying to run off to the land side, yanking themselves and me with the leash...don't coddle or baby talk, "Oh, sweetie snookum poopy puppy head, it's ok" :et, pet, pet:: Just keep calm, your voice calm and continue to work on focus on you and whatever it is that they like - toy, treat, whatever.

Some puppies have no fear of anything, some do so try to turn everything in to a positive and always, always, always end on a positive note. Always.


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## doggiedad (Jan 23, 2011)

train, train, train and socialize, socialize, socialize everyday.
train and socialize several times a day. find a puppy class.
i like going to private lessons before going to group classes.
you're on the right track "think ahead to stay ahead".

you don't want your dog jumping on people or dogs when
he meets people or dogs don't let him meet people on a
loose leash, you don't want him to be reactive to other animals introduce him to all sorts of other animals,
you don't want to be reactive to the mail man introduce him
to the mail man, you don't want him chasing cars train in traffic,
you don't want him bolting when the door is open train him not to exit
the house without a command even when distractions are near, you don't want him jumping
in or out of the car without a command train him, etc. whatever it is train and socialize.


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## CavePaws (Jan 25, 2011)

Something I will add in here. You need to seriously have a look at the parents of your puppy, really know their temperament. I am going to require an interaction with the parents and watch them interact with their owners when I decide to buy a puppy from someone. If you get a puppy with bad genetics I can tell you it will be a hell of a fight in an upstream battle getting that puppy accepting of whatever it is terrified of. You need to let your puppy meet at the very least 5-10 new people a week and 5-10 new healthy dogs. These need to be novel experiences. Your dog has a VERY critical socialization period in it's life between 3 and 16 weeks of age. Within those first ten weeks I strongly advise you getting AS MANY people and healthy dogs to interact with your new puppy as possible. It is seriously imperative for your dog to meet a ton of novel people in the early stages of its life. We tell clients all the time just what Natalie pointed out; it is WAY more of a risk to under socialize your puppy than to keep them away from illness because of a vaccination period.


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## luvMyBRT (Mar 8, 2010)

Yes to ending on a positive note! That's a good one! 

Some other things I have done is to start clipping their nails from day one. Mess with their feet and get them used to you touching them. When Duncan was a puppy I would give him a tiny treat after I clipped each toe nail. Now, that he's older he gets a small treat after each foot. He thinks getting his nails trimmed is the best thing ever and just lays on his back for me. Same with getting a bath....small treats through out the bath so the puppy thinks that baths are awesome! During thunder storms I also play ball with Duncan and give treats when there is loud thunder. Anything that could be perceived as scary or a threat I want to make a good and happy thing with tons of treats! 

Another thing that's important when they are young and learning is to reward *every single* time they come when called. Duncan's recall is about 99% perfect because he knows he gets praise and a treat when he comes no matter what.


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