# What do YOU want to learn in a dog training class?



## OnyxDog (Jun 15, 2011)

Hello! I have recently been hired to create the dog training program at a new boarding/grooming/training facility. I want to know what the general public wants to learn in a training class. What types of classes would you be interested in taking? (agility, clicker training, trick training, etc.) What behaviors would you like to learn? Socialization? I basically have the freedom to create whatever classes I feel like creating, as long as it is positive reinforcement. Your opinions would be greatly appreciated, because it will help me teach classes that will actually be useful! Thanks!


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## xellil (Apr 4, 2011)

I loved my basic obedience classes. And I loved the trainer. It was when we started getting into more advanced stuff I began to have issues.

We did agility with no real help and no goal. It was just all willy nilly. I started my dog out wrong and it just got worse, and when I would ask for help from the trainers there they would help for a couple minutes and move on to someone else. They never had us work toward any kind of competition. We dropped out.

Advanced class - I know the point was to keep a dog fine tuned but there didn't seem to be any goal there either. In novice class, my goal was to get a CGC and after that was done we were just kind of drifting. 

You can only make your dog jump through a hoola hoop so many times before you start to wonder why you keep doing the same things and never going anywhere. I would have loved to have been working toward maybe even a classroom obedience competition, with help on entering other local events.

We dropped out of that after a year, but really our heart wasn't in it for 3/4 of that and we missed alot of classes. It didn't matter because it didn't get progressively harder, just different versions of the same thing. Drop food and see if your dog ignores it. Leave the room. Walk without a leash. And many different variations of those things. up, down, up, down, up, down. Rebel was alot smarter than me and got to where it would take him about a minute to sit and two minutes to down - he was sick of it.


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## Liz (Sep 27, 2010)

When I worked with a private training group in California we had lots of classes offered. 
Puppy class - basic obedience introduced and little agility equipment for a warm up and play time.
House Manners - no jumping, off the furniture, walk nice (not heeling) stay in the room , quiet, no bite and come. Basic manners
Beg. Obedience - goal was to get a CGC
Int. Obedience - goal was to be able to compete in Novice Obedience
Advanced - working towards off leash behaviors and working towards CDX.
Agility - 
Problem Solving - working on adult dogs with bad manners - covered same as puppy house manners but for adult dogs

Most people really needed the house manners and problem solving classes and many just enjoyed the others.


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## Maxy24 (Mar 5, 2011)

Classes I'd like:
Puppy Socialization- not a class just for puppy playing, though it should be included in each class (at the end), but one that also introduces new items each time. Maybe one class focuses on loud sounds (Playing thunder CDs while the owner plays with the dog, dropping objects that make noises while rewarding the dog with food or play,etc.) next class on unusual looking people (big hats, full winter gear, canes and wheelchairs, carrying large objects, riding bikes or skateboards, etc. have owners give treats as these people pass or have the people give the treats if the owner wants that), another class with different surfaces (agility equipment, walking on tarps, walking through the rungs of a flat ladder, etc.), and whatever else you can think of. The class should of course be up beat, fun, very unstructured and just fun for dogs and people. Lots of playing and treats, and praise, low pressure. Each class should also include everybody greeting each others puppies in whatever manner the puppy is comfortable with (more timid puppies aren't going to be okay with some stranger waltzing up and petting them on the head, so maybe just letting the puppy sniff people's hand or get a treat and then move on). Teach the owners how to read if their puppy is uncomfortable, stress the importance of lots of unique, positive experiences, teach them never to push their puppies too hard or else it could create fears, talk about fear periods in puppy development, etc. I don't know any classes like this, some puppy obedience classes incorporate it, but seeing how important socialization is, I'd love to see a class devoted to giving puppies new experiences and teaching owners about socialization. Good manners can be enforced in the class as well, when dogs are greeting people the owners and greeters can enforce rules about not jumping up for attention or pulling over to other dogs/people in order to greet them.

Manners class (might want to split into puppy and adult)- A class focusing on things like not stealing items/food (default leave it of items on surfaces/floor), not jumping up, staying quiet when aroused, self control in the presence of distractions, get off furniture when told, no mouthing, take treats gently/without jumping up, no pulling on leash to greet dogs/people, not pulling on leash in general, becoming comfortable with people near their food/toys (if their dog already has issues with this they need a unique protocol/after class help and should listen to the instruction/watch but not participate. Preventing resource guarding and and treating it require different approaches), asking for attention in a polite manner, not begging around food, dropping objects on command, and whatever other manner things you can think of. This would not be for fixing aggression issues...I don't know if you have trainers equipped for that and if you did it would have to be a super small class (maybe three dogs) specifically for that problem.

Puppy obedience- teaches the owners how to train basic behaviors, should incorporate socialization with the other owners and the puppies but the bulk of the class should be teaching commands. Most of the class should be teaching the owners, a puppy isn't going to do well with constant training for an hour. Make sure to go over rewarding with treats and toys as well as life rewards (getting to go outside, getting to go for a walk, getting permission to go on the furniture, getting attention for asking politely). Teach them how to teach a release command (which tells the dog he no loner has to perform the cued behavior) and make sure they use the release (most people neglect this, most puppy/beginner obedience classes also fail to make this important if they teach it at all). During times where you are talking instruct the owners to reward their dog periodically when he is sitting or lying down calmly, it's very nice to have a dog who just plops himself down when you stop to talk to someone on a walk or are stopping to pick up dog poop. 

Beginner obedience- Same as puppy obedience but for adults who have not learned basic behaviors yet. Wouldn't have dog socialization as part of the class because not all of the dogs are going to be dog friendly.

Intermediate obedience- Would be using the same behaviors as beginners/puppy obedience but would start proofing the commands. That would mean adding distance, duration, and distractions to the behavior. This is where the release cue is going to be very important because the dog isn't just being asked to put his butt on the ground and be done, he needs to sit until released. 

Advanced obedience- Same behaviors as other obedience classes. Here you would begin variable reinforcement schedules so the dog can perform several behaviors before being rewarded (by the end you'll want the dog to be able to go through an obedience or rally type course, only being rewarded at the very end). Begin working off leash as well. Basically perfect the obedience behaviors. Again, try to keep the class upbeat and keep the dogs and owners having fun. Continue working on distance, duration, and distraction...especially distraction. Also start working on the dog when aroused. For example have the owners play tug with their dog and throughout the game they should have the dog drop the toy and follow some commands to restart the game. Some dogs have trouble focusing when playing, but they'll figure it out. 

CGC prep- Work specifically on the behaviors that are on the CGC test. 

Agility classes- I don't know a ton about agility yet. I know there should be an agility foundations class (not teaching equipment, teaches handling skills, balance, hind end awareness, contacts, cues used on the course (I don't really know what they are)). Then you'll of course have varying levels of classes beyond that.

Other sports prep- I don't know enough about all of the sports to give specific requests. I know nose work is becoming popular, but there are a ton of sports out there. It'll depend on what the trainers know how to teach.

Tricks class- A class for people to come and train various tricks, it'd be like an obedience class except not obedience commands. The trainer can instruct on various tricks and then maybe the owners can come up with a special project (trick not on the syllabus) to train the dog and present on the last class. You'd have to provide them with a syllabus on the first day and tell them about the project on the first day so they have lots of time to come up with something and prepare it. Maybe give them a list of ideas and tell them to check youtube.


I'm sure there are others I could think of, I think the most important ones for most owners is socialization class, manners, and basic obedience.


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## bridget246 (Oct 26, 2011)

I would like agility and trick training that wasn't completely focused around treats and or leash corrections.


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## xellil (Apr 4, 2011)

bridget246 said:


> I would like agility and trick training that wasn't completely focused around treats and or leash corrections.


I've never heard of nor seen leash corrections for either one of those.


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## chowder (Sep 7, 2008)

I would really like a basic clicker training class to have at least two trainers available so that dogs could move forward at different paces. For example, we had three puppies in our puppy class. One of the puppies was extremely hyper and very easily distracted. The trainer would spend a tremendous amount of time with that one owner and puppy because the other two puppies 'got it' very quickly. We would sit there with our two pups bored out of their minds waiting for the hyper puppy and owner to figure out what to do. 

If you had two trainers, they could take a 'slow learner' or a 'fast learner' off to the side and work with them while the rest of the class continued on. There would be less frustration overall and less drop outs.


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## bridget246 (Oct 26, 2011)

xellil said:


> I've never heard of nor seen leash corrections for either one of those.


I never seen them from agility but I have seen them in trick training. 

The things in the classes I've been in lack: Other methods beyond treats. They go over timing briefly but not a lot of time is spent on this very important aspect of training. How to better understand your dog non verbal signs. How to properly do a leash correction that the dog can actually benefit from instead of go against. 

I'm sure there is more that I'm forgetting.


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## MollyWoppy (Mar 19, 2010)

I'm going to give this some more thought to figure out exactly what I would like. We did 2 puppy classes which were very, very basic, sit, liedown, rollover and a bit of socialisation. Too basic for Mollie. The only good thing was that there was a competition to teach a trick at home, which we won (of course ).
Then she did 2 manners classes, which pissed me off a bit as every single other dog was a pedigree and each owner was encouraged to spiel on about their linage and history etc. And, I know for a fact that mutt Mol was the smartest one there, but the comments from the other owners about mutts went down like a lead brick. Maybe it's just the area I live in, but that is a huge put off for those who rescue mixed breeds.
One thing I would like, and it's exactly what Liz said above, is problem solving classes. Where a dog has a specific problem, whether it is pulling on the leash, dog aggression or shyness, lack of focus, barking, over excitement, over submissive, just stuff like that, that the average person has no clue how to fix. And, not being predudice against dogs with fear aggression, as long as they are handled confidently and carefully, and a close eye kept on their body language, allowing them in a class can be a huge step in their recovery.


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## OnyxDog (Jun 15, 2011)

Wow! Lots of good feedback here. I have realized that there is something lacking in a lot of training classes, and you have all helped me to pinpoint some things that I would like to make sure to include. I am looking forward to creating this training program, because it will be based around what I think is right... not what some big corporate company thinks is right. I will be able to provide fun and informative classes that will help dogs and their owners to communicate with each other more effectively, thus improving the lives of dogs. I'm excited!

I am still open to more suggestions! Keep them coming if you have them! Thanks!


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## Scarlett_O' (May 19, 2011)

I want to see a "puppy class" that is about adults(humans) and their younger dogs who they want to act more mature.
This could either be labeled as a puppy class or beginner/intermediate class that was open to all aged dogs. 
I dont go to puppy classes, too much foo-foo, codling and general annoying "baby" behavior for me, or my dog to witness since I want him/her to act like an adult when we are out and about and/or have people over!

This class on top of the ones that Liz already stated!!:thumb:


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## Liz (Sep 27, 2010)

I think what people appreciate no matter how you structure your class is knowing the goal. Explain clearly what you see as the goal for the class and get their input and see if anything can be mildly adapted to some special needs. Once in a while you would get a show puppy and the handlers are afraid to teach sit - okay let's work on stand stay with him. We had a service pup in training - we had a another trainer come in with crutches one week, a walker the next, a cane the following and a wheelchair the last. This was integrated into all puppy classes later because it was so beneficial for the pups to experience this strange looking and moving person. Anyway, just some ideas.


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## eternalstudent (Jul 22, 2010)

Personally I go to training classes for two reasons.

1 - socialisation
2- so I can become trained 

I get a lot of people comment in a not to respectful way that I have been practicing over the week between classes ..... Well Duh is that not sensible.

For me a good trainer will spend enough time each session so I can go away with one new thing and practice it. Then go back and demonstrate it at the next class.

I go to two classes both are basic OB but one adds on trick training and the other adds on agility training. This is more to liven up the classes and to show that dog training is not all SIT, STAY and DOWN.

So my advice would be to keep focused on the owner not the dog, and include items that are fun


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## xellil (Apr 4, 2011)

Liz said:


> I think what people appreciate no matter how you structure your class is knowing the goal.


EXACTLY! That why we dropped out. Just meandering aimlessly week to week, going nowhere...

If I found a trainer right told me he/she would help us enter into obedience competitions, or agility trials, or be heading _somewhere_.. I would be all over that. But I'm not gonna go just to make my dog jump through hoops (literally) with no point to it.


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## K9Pro (Mar 11, 2012)

I think your question is answered fairly well in the many posts. I also think that the desired classes can be regionally driven. In other words, a metropolitan area has different needs in training than a rural venue. Over the years I have trained in both venues, and have changed my class structure to meet the local audience's needs.
here in western NC, I am located rurally. 
People own mostly companion and hunting dogs. My basic obedience sessions teach SIT, DOWN, STAND, STAY, COME, LOOK, LEAVE IT, GO TO YOUR SPOT & LOOSE LEAD WALKING. This is a VERY popular Class, which can lead to field trial training without interfering in that training. I am very aware of those clients who plan that path, and have designed my classes to integrate well with that path. 
My intermediate Obedience class moves on to "hammer" duration, distance and distractions on the previously mentioned behaviors. I offer an advanced class where I'd begin to prep for competition and teach a formal heel and retrieve and jumps. I offer Agility for fun, I offer Tricks. All but the advanced obedience are very popular in this rural environment.


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## Dude and Bucks Mamma (May 14, 2011)

For ours, the goal of basic obedience is for the puppy owners and people with dogs who have basic problems like barking, housebreaking, etc.

Intermediate is not "trick training" but works on conditioning your dog to respond without a second thought. I have only been to class one of this one but it is with the same trainer and her "personal" goal is to make every owner feel that they could potentially do obedience trials with their dogs if they wanted to. She does obedience and agility so she knows how to motivate a dog to respond. I want to do obedience with Buck so this class is perfect. I haven't heard about any negative things being said about these classes.

The advanced class is titled "Advanced/CGC" so obviously, the goal is CGC. 

What I am looking for in a class is to be taught the kinds of things that Buck and I would be presented with in both the CGC test and an obedience trial.

Our trainer's agility class, though, is to get the basics of agility down so that you can move on to advanced agility. In advanced agility, her goal is to help you with any problems you may be having in your runs as well as helping those who want to start competing feel confident enough to actually enter an agility trial. 

I think a trainer needs to know what the goals of the "selected audience" are likely to be. For example, in an agility class, the goal might be to learn to do it for fun for some and for others, maybe they want to compete. Another example: In puppy class, the goal is likely to be to housebreak and teach basic house manners.


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## ciaBrysh (Dec 16, 2011)

I currently have Willow enrolled in a beginner's OB class (puppy K or beginners OB are the same)
I enrolled her because she needs some serious work on her socialization...I mean...her focus is terrible around other dogs, so what better way to train her to focus? lol


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## xellil (Apr 4, 2011)

ciaBrysh said:


> I currently have Willow enrolled in a beginner's OB class (puppy K or beginners OB are the same)
> I enrolled her because she needs some serious work on her socialization...I mean...her focus is terrible around other dogs, so what better way to train her to focus? lol


just being around so many other dogs was incredibly good for Rebel - even though they couldn't visit or play with each other, it desensitized him from reacting so crazily whenever he sees a dog. His novice class was very big, about 80 dogs, and it's hard to go berzercko on that many dogs milling around. So he just gave up trying.


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## wolfsnaps88 (Jan 2, 2012)

As a former Petco trainer, I can tell you I will never take my dog to a training class. I brought my dog in the beginning when I was learning to be a trainer and whhooooo boy. People just suck. People would let their dogs come up to my dog and be rude and if my dog (Dozer at the time) would make any move at all (his go to move was barking) people said my dog was the problem. Really? Not your dog biting at his ankles in a not so playful way. Mind you, Dozer is a very patient dog. He surprises me as I am not nearly as patient. But after ten minutes of continuous annoying behavior from a very small dog and an owner who could care less about correcting said dog, Dozer had enough. he basically just stands there barking. Its a big bark 

People always blame the bigger, scarier looking dog. 

What I would like is socialization with other respectful dogs. It is so important. But since most places do not allow dogs to interact, or people are ignorant and allow their dogs to do whatever, I will not bring my dog (any of them now or future) to a class. Nothing against trainers though. There are some good ones. I am just basing this on my experience. Same thing happened when I brought my old lab. He has much less patience and shut the offending dog up (it was another lab that time.)


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## OnyxDog (Jun 15, 2011)

Thank you all for your input!

All of this information helps me tremendously in creating my curriculum! I will make sure to have a goal for each class, so the students know where they are going and what they can accomplish. 

You have all given me great ideas for the types of classes to offer. I love how helpful people are on this forum!


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## eternalstudent (Jul 22, 2010)

wolfsnaps88 said:


> As a former Petco trainer, I can tell you I will never take my dog to a training class. I brought my dog in the beginning when I was learning to be a trainer and whhooooo boy. People just suck. People would let their dogs come up to my dog and be rude and if my dog (Dozer at the time) would make any move at all (his go to move was barking) people said my dog was the problem. Really? Not your dog biting at his ankles in a not so playful way. Mind you, Dozer is a very patient dog. He surprises me as I am not nearly as patient. But after ten minutes of continuous annoying behavior from a very small dog and an owner who could care less about correcting said dog, Dozer had enough. he basically just stands there barking. Its a big bark
> 
> People always blame the bigger, scarier looking dog.
> 
> What I would like is socialization with other respectful dogs. It is so important. But since most places do not allow dogs to interact, or people are ignorant and allow their dogs to do whatever, I will not bring my dog (any of them now or future) to a class. Nothing against trainers though. There are some good ones. I am just basing this on my experience. Same thing happened when I brought my old lab. He has much less patience and shut the offending dog up (it was another lab that time.)


One of the things my trainer said in one class is that there is nothing wrong with pushing the other dog away if it is winding up yours. I was impressed with this for two reasons.

one because it lets other owners know that their dog is pain in the but
and two because you may well have to do it out in the park. Only today I had an ignorant lab trying to hump my Becka and the owner was a good 100 yards away. 

As I said in my earlier post here. Classes IMHO should be about making sure us as owners are responsible, and understand good dogy manners, and that we know how to train a dog.


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## Scarlett_O' (May 19, 2011)

eternalstudent said:


> One of the things my trainer said in one class is that there is nothing wrong with pushing the other dog away if it is winding up yours. I was impressed with this for two reasons.
> 
> one because it lets other owners know that their dog is pain in the but
> and two because you may well have to do it out in the park. Only today I had an ignorant lab trying to hump my Becka and the owner was a good 100 yards away.
> ...


I agree 1000% with your trainer(and you:smile I wouldn't ever blame someone else for their dog being rude to mine for an extended period of time....that would be all my fault!:wink:


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