# Loose leash walking



## bridget246

How do you do it? I've been trying lots of different things but my dog is determined to not walk with a loose leash in public around other people. Walking at the heel is very hard for her when no one is around. My training club gave me a prong collar to use when I'm in class because I am trying everything else that they asked and it isn't working. The prong collar works wonders. It hurts her a bit... but it works. 

I'm looking for the wild and crazy ways to teach loose leash walking. I think I've tried most of the common ones without much success.


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## KittyKat

I taught Piper in a few steps. First i would have a piece of cheese in front of her while i'm walking, just luring her around with it. Then after she follows the cheese around for awhile I would just start walking without it. I would move at a fast pace (speed walking) to keep her following me. I changed directions a lot. I would reward often for just following me. I would also get her to "look at me" while walking and would just keep talking with her to keep her attention. If she tried to go in another direction i'd just pop the leash and say "ah-ah" and move in the opposite direction she tried to head in. 

If you are having tons of issues i'd even try just running around obstacles... force the dog to pay attention to where you are going. The faster you move the less chance they have to think about going elsewhere.


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## Liz

With my own dogs I teach attention or "watch me" first. When they have mastered eye contact with me for 1 minute we start literally giving a watch command and taking one step. Then on and on. My guys tend to get the gist after the tenth step. Then we progress to figures eights, slow and fast and so on.


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## Maxy24

I use a no pull harness (front clipping) combined with stopping and backing up every time he pulls. He pulls, I walk backwards (I don't turn around, I walk facing forward, but moving backwards) until the dog turns and walks all the way to me, and then I walk forward again, repeat at every pull. It's annoying and frustrating (for both of you) but it can work and the harness helps make the dog turn when you back up, instead of continually puling forward as you drag him back. Using treats will speed things up, after the dog walks to you when you're backing up, and you start moving forward again, click and treat so long as the leash is loose. Don't lure him to focus on you, just click and treat repeatedly while the leash is loose. Then when he pulls back up again. The idea is that he'll start extending the time he's loose leashed to get the treats. Then you can start extending the time between treats by a second or two. Gradually continue to extend them once he's walking loose leashed.


Eventually I'll usually start standing still when the dog pulls. At that point the dog usually already understands he needs to come back to me to start the walk again so when I stop he'll turn around and come towards me and we can start walking again. If you are consistent the dog will start doing this very fast and it will turn into him turning back whenever he feels pressure on the leash. 

Make sure you use the same length leash every time you walk and don't hold it shortened, the dog needs to figure out how far he can go before he reaches the end or else he'll never learn how to not pull on it, no retractable leashes as they encourage pulling.

Good luck, it can be very frustrating and I find being persistent to be hardest because at first it'll seem like you're not walking anywhere. But keep it up, always and it'll likely work.


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## xchairity_casex

i trained puppies to walk on a loose lead by stopping every single time that lead is taut i dont talk i dont do anything i stand there puppies will usually jerk ahead and wimper and jump around growl then give up and turn around to look at you like "what the heck?" THEN you get out a treat re-position them at your side and try walking again of coarse they pull ebfore you get a full step taken so you stop and repete the excersize WAIT for them to look at you dont talk to make sounds to get there attention jsut wait your conditioning them to LOOK at you for what they want if you always call to them or make a whistleing after a few times they may ignore you wich was the case with BT puppies they learn to ignore the noises you make. 
NEVER EVER do this excersize in a rush when your in a hurry if all you have is 30 mintues be prepared to NOT leave the yard! once you begin the stopping training you cant just one day say "oh im in a hurry lets just go home and you can pull" you have to put in the time which with this is alot but its very effective

some times with hyper adult dogs or young dogs if you begin walking backward or in the opposite direction they will run past you and begin walking in that direction pulling so if walking backward only causes your dog to pull in the opposite direction just use the stop technique.


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## xellil

In my opinion if a prong collar is painful, it's not being used right. It should be an attention-getter, not an ouch. Did your trainer fit it properly? Show you how to use it? Demonstrate? Walk with you? My trainer spent 3 hours with me before he sent me off alone with a dog and a prong collar. We walked all over the place, including in Walgreens and a car store. And it needs to be a good one, with very rounded ends and/or rubber tips, not something that actually pokes into them. If she is actually showing pain, try a trainer who knows more about them.

My current trainer was the fifth one we tried. My opinion is that most trainers stink. A dog should never show pain when using a prong collar, even a little bit. Bad trainers and ignorant owners are why so many people think they are cruel when if used properly they are miracle workers.

We started just letting Rebel head off and right before he got to the end of the leash I would do a kiss kiss sound, a small tug on the leash, squat, and ask him to come. then we graduated to heading off in another direction rather than asking him to come. Lots of treats. Billions of treats. My pockets were dribbling treats everywhere. 

And then once you start, you can't just walk. You have to keep them focused on you pretty much 100% of the time - I just asked him to come, stay, sit, sit heel, whatever commands I wasn't sick of. And treat, treat, treat. 

Worked pretty well for us.


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## xellil

Maxy24 said:


> Good luck, it can be very frustrating and I find being persistent to be hardest because at first it'll seem like you're not walking anywhere. But keep it up, always and it'll likely work.


That is so true! We used to walk what felt like two hours and I'd turn around and we'd be 20 feet beyond the end of our driveway.


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## Maxy24

As far as prong collars causing pain, I think most of them do. If you use rubber tips then maybe it's just uncomfortable, but then it doesn't work for a lot of dogs, they will pull despite discomfort, it would need to be painful for them to work. Also it depends how hard the dog hits the end of the leash. I think for most dogs, the prong collar is somewhat painful, that's why it works when nothing else has.


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## bernadettelevis

I had a dog like that. Nothing worked. Trainers told me to change direction,but that only made me go in circle because he pulled in any direction.
So i started shaping the behaviour i wanted with the clicker.
I started out clicking one second when the leash was loose. Aif that works wait with the click until the you can 5 steps on a loose leash.
Whenever he pulled i stopped and waited paitently until he came back, i didn't say anything (and yes this can be frustrating at times). I didn't reward him for coming back to me, because i didn't want to shape the yoyo effect (walk til the end of the leash and come back all the time).

And finally we can walk on a loose leash in almost any situation . I hope you get what i mean and it helps you .


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## xellil

Maxy24 said:


> As far as prong collars causing pain, I think most of them do. If you use rubber tips then maybe it's just uncomfortable, but then it doesn't work for a lot of dogs, they will pull despite discomfort, it would need to be painful for them to work. Also it depends how hard the dog hits the end of the leash. I think for most dogs, the prong collar is somewhat painful, that's why it works when nothing else has.


the trick is you don't let them hit the end of the leash. If they don't do that, it doesn't hurt. A little squeeze around their neck isn't going to hurt them. I have worn a prong collar. My husband walked me around with one (after dark). I don't know what people mean by "discomfort". When it tightens, I felt it. But it certainly didn't hurt. Now if I had taken off running and hit the end of it, it would have hurt like hell.

If you start them with a one or two foot leash, they can't hit the end of it. By the time they are out to six feet, they respond to verbal cues and/or very slight pressure. You can't just put a dog on a prong collar and go walking, letting them do whatever they can to hurt themselves.

It always amazes me how people will let their dogs choke themselves out or yank their necks like crazy but think a prong collar is cruel. i think 99% of people just don't have any clue how to use them properly. I would never hurt my dog. 

We are long past prong collars. But without it, we'd still be wallering around in the back yard.


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## doggiedad

i taught my dog to heel (on either side with or without a leash).
once my dog learned how to heel loose leash walking and walking
without a leash was no problem. my dog was taught heel
and loose leash walking usuing a flat collar. set up a training
schedule. train in short sessions. conduct many sessions
during the course od a day. my sessions last 5 to 10 minutes
and always ending on a positive note. i train indoors
and outside.


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## doggiedad

easy, easy, this is a family forum. lol.



xellil said:


> I have worn a prong collar. My husband walked me around with one (after dark).When it tightens, I felt it.


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## xellil

doggiedad said:


> easy, easy, this is a family forum. lol.


i know. I'm really embarrassed to say that, and have never told it to people I actually know 

When i worked at a quickie store once way out in the middle of nowhere in West Texas back in 1980, a van pulled up and out comes a fellow and a girl and she's got a spiked collar on attached to a leash the man is holding. They come into the store and get crackers, cokes, candy bars etc. All while he is heeling her like a dog.

For a bunch of hicks in West Texas, that was a topic of conversation for literally months. I don't think i closed my mouth for at least two weeks.


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## doggiedad

you naughty girl.



xellil said:


> I have worn a prong collar. My husband walked me around with one (after dark). When it tightens, I felt it.





xellil said:


> When i worked at a quickie store once way out in the middle of nowhere


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## xellil

I think I will quit while I am ahead!


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## Khan

Well, like some of the above posters, I have done the get nowhere fast way of training. When the dog pulls, you become a tree and when the leash gets slack, you continue. I truly believe this works; but i also believe it really depends on the dog. Khan picked this up in no time. However, Zeus our Rottie (RIP) he never good grasp that if he pulls, we stopped, and when he gave up some leash we would continue. For him I used a front clip harness. That worked great. The key to the harness is finding one that has the front clip. Most harnesses have the clip on the dogs back. That will do nothing for a dog who pulls. The front clip however has a couple advantages. The first is that when the dog starts to pull, the leash automatically put pressure across their chest and tops of the legs. This seems to register with the dog and in order to get the pressure relieved, they will stop pulling. The other advantage is when the dog pulls, and you become a tree if they try to continue they eventually will be turned around headed back your direction.
Something else I would suggest that requires no special equipment other than your 6ft leather leash. I hope I can explain this so it makes sense. Here goes:
Clip your leash to the collar
Take the leash and form almost a lasso and put that low on your dogs chest, and legs. 
Grab both sides of the leash in the middle of the dogs back. Voila, instant harness without having to buy one!!
Here is a photo of what I'm talking about. Maybe it will make more sense if you see it!!


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## xchairity_casex

ohh khan what a great idea! i love it thanks for the awsome tip!


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## bridget246

I've tried taking everyone's advice in here. I would love to say I had nothing but success during these past few weeks but then I'd be lying. My hugest problem is that around my area where we do 90% of our walks my dog doesn't pull much and any pulling is easily corrected. She knows all the people here and if anything distracts her we can sit and wait for it to past before we start walking again. The second I take her into any new place with lots of distractions she gets crazy and very hard to handle. Standing still means she attacks the leash and my legs to try to get my to go. Forcing her into a sit to correct that gets my yelled at by random strangers and turns me into a bad guy. All I did was a quick pull up on the lease and then release to get her into a sit when she is misbehaving. 100% and put on a no pull harness type of thing to correct it. I don't want to do that. I would like my dog to walk at the heel with a normal collar so that we can advance to few other activities that I would love to do with her in the future. 

For now I have decided to keep using the prong whenever we are in distracted areas so that she gets use to always being by me when we walk in those areas. The hugest benefits about the prong as opposed to other methods to achieve this is that it only goes around the dogs neck and doesn't do anything else. A gentle leader restricts movement a great deal. Easy walkers go around the dog legs so the dog feels pressure there. Taking off the easy walker means no more pressure for the dog and they could go back to the normal pulling since they don't feel the pressure there. I can't afford a good shock collar and I refused to get anything less than one of the best to get her off the leash completely. Besides, the shock collar adds weight and using it correctly still requires a lot of work and adds weight which the dog might notice when they are not using it. 

Here is my results on the prong. A few times a week we go to a pet store for a hour and walk all around the store meeting other dogs and focusing on ignoring the distraction. During the first week we worked on not pulling which she had some trouble with so I would give her treats when we took x amount of steps without pulling and I kept increasing the number of steps. This past week she didn't pull much at all so I had her watching me as we were walking all through the store and we actually stopped to meet with the other dogs if she was willing to sit while I talked to the owner prior to the meeting. Its taking a ton of treats to get the watch me thing while walking but I think it is going to pay off later. Next week I'm hoping to allow people to pet her only if they listen to me! All I want is for them to walk up to her and touch her on the head and on her back. That is all. Don't really speak much or anything else. She gets way too excited with strangers and jumps all over people when they do that with her. With each jump she does and they touch her she is rewarded for jumping on them and I get more work.

It should be noted that I am having my family and friends touch her while she is in a sit. Just couldn't do strangers yet because they often don't like my rules and find me to be a bad guy to such a pretty dog that could hurts someone when jumping on them....

Edit: Every time I post updates here I get more suggestions. The main thing I would like suggestions on now is the timing. I think the suggestions on loose leash walking are excellent and by applying the stopping method with the prong causes her to stop and the prong never puts too much pressure on her. Which means she is happy with the prong on her since it doesn't hurt and I'm happy because I'm not having to stop and correct her every 5 minutes and don't have people yelling at me and trying to sell me more training classes. Prong collars are awesome when use with the right dog and during the right times. I doubt they work for all dogs and I doubt they should be worn beyond where they are needed.


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## wolfsnaps88

Ok...my credentials: I was a Petco dog trainer. This means nothing, trust me. But they taught what you already know. The stop when they pull, change directions...blah blah blah.

I use a prong collar. It does not have tips. (I should maybe get some though). If I did not use a prong collar, I would not have a right arm anymore as my English Mastiff pulls...HARD. I have tried everything. In a class situation he is pretty good except for very very short attention span (when he is done, he is DONE and just lays down.) I think when used PROPERLY they have their place in the training world. It basically is a correction similar to what another dog would give, a bite (pressure) around the neck. 

I think it is awesome that xellil actually wore one. I think everyone should walk a day in a dog's.....paws? 

I made a video showing how Dozer reacts to the prong collar. If it was such a horrible device, then when he sees it, he should cower in fear right? NOPE. He dances, his butt wiggles, and then he sits stock still like a gentlemen for me to put it on him. Because he knows its time to go for a walk! I notice he does scratch at it with his back foot. It probably irritates him a bit. But he doesn't cry out in pain and I never actually correct him ever. He is actually quite the gentlemen on it. But I have run into bikers and deer on my walks with the dogs and if he hadn't been wearing that collar...I don't even want to think what could have happened. 

For the OP, I would suggest back to basic training. Only when you are doing the loose leach stuff, have purposeful distractions. You will need help. Have someone run by and throw a ball or something. Have someone push a stroller full of hot dogs. Basically, desensitize the dog so he only focuses on you. Does your dog know the leave it command? 

Just my suggestions as I think you have tried everything else. 

As for Dozer, he sadly will probably be left on a prong collar for our walks despite me having originally wanted to phase that out. Some dogs just can't be taught certain things. I am a firm believe in that. Some dogs' prey drive is too strong. I think they can no longer hear anything once instinct kicks in. Good luck.


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## bridget246

wolfsnaps88 said:


> For the OP, I would suggest back to basic training. Only when you are doing the loose leach stuff, have purposeful distractions. You will need help. Have someone run by and throw a ball or something. Have someone push a stroller full of hot dogs. Basically, desensitize the dog so he only focuses on you. Does your dog know the leave it command?
> 
> Just my suggestions as I think you have tried everything else.
> 
> As for Dozer, he sadly will probably be left on a prong collar for our walks despite me having originally wanted to phase that out. Some dogs just can't be taught certain things. I am a firm believe in that. Some dogs' prey drive is too strong. I think they can no longer hear anything once instinct kicks in. Good luck.


Yes she knows the leave it command. I know it is possible to get her to do this without the prong. My main problem is timing. That is my number 1 problem with training my dog. My trainers are telling that my timing is getting much much better and I'm doing the right things so I just have to let me body get use to it. I had a few people who are really good with timing walk Bridget in a distracting area without her pulling because they corrected it a second _before_ she actually pulls. I can't do that yet. I will keep trying.


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## tricia beaver

with my huskies, I put them on a Gentle Leader ( face harness. NOT a muzzle) and ran around randomly. Lots of turns and changes of direction. about 30 minutes every day for a week or so. It helps teach them to watch you so they know what you are doing. Though my neighbors thought I went crazy. when I walk them, if they pull the leash I yank the leash and force them closer, then let the leash hang loose. It took a while but they learned. A choker works for my girls. I ONLY use it for a quick "snap" when I yank the leash, never choke them with it.


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## bridget246

I bought a gentle leader back and I don't like them at all. Dog doesn't get good head movement. We are training for AKC titles and the gentle leaders are not allowed. Same with the harness that goes around the legs. 

Today we went on a slow walk after bathroom with a normal collar. The goal for her was to stay right bedside me and watch me the entire time. Treats were held at shoulder level. She lasted about 15 minutes of awesome focus. We are going to take it slow and let her keep that focus and then add more speed. By slow I meant 2.5-3 miles a hour. Hoping to get her going longer and allowing her to leave my side as a reward.


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## wolfsnaps88

I have noticed gentle leaders and halti's can often rub the fur off the dog's faces. And every dog I have seen wearing one doesn't look too thrilled. LOL. But whatever works. People think I am a horrible person for using a prong collar. Tomato. Tomahto.

Gotta say, I don't like chokers at all. I know, weird coming from a prong collar user. I just don't like them. And they have never worked for me.


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## Liz

I like prong collar when used correctly. I have found that if I start my pup on a martingale they get just enough correction at a very young age to inhibit pulling. All the people who have my pups say they have lovely leash manners - they just never think to pull.


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## xellil

wolfsnaps88 said:


> I have noticed gentle leaders and halti's can often rub the fur off the dog's faces. And every dog I have seen wearing one doesn't look too thrilled. LOL. But whatever works. People think I am a horrible person for using a prong collar. Tomato. Tomahto.
> 
> Gotta say, I don't like chokers at all. I know, weird coming from a prong collar user. I just don't like them. And they have never worked for me.


A gentle leader actually injured my dog. He sliced the side of his face and lip when he started spinning. If he wasn't spinning, he would plant his legs and pull and shake his head like crazy, trying to pull it off. he hated it fiercely and it was the only restraint I ever put on him that he would actually hang his head and whine when he saw it.

I only put it on him three times, and it was two times too many.


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## ciaBrysh

I HATE the gentle leader! I tried it with Willow but because she is so high prey driven, she almost got really hurt because she lunged so fast >.< i began using a prong collar and had fast and amazing results =)


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## chewice

Cash and I have been using the gentle leader with awesome results. He flings himself like the puppy comment above but once he is done his spaz he feels "defeated" and walks right beside me. After we have had at least a good 10 minutes of loose leash he gets to go offleash to release the energy. He is beginning to realize the sooner he calms down the sooner he gets the darn thing off his face.


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## Deco

Not sure if you have them in the US but many have moved away from the Gentle leader and shifted onto a dogmatic. Which doesn't ride up. Can't comment as I use a standard flat collar and always will.

The dog has learnt either from you or it's previous owner/s that pulling makes them go forward. Walking is a massively high reward and it is a very slow process to unlearn this behaviour. Obviously you can choke your dog, stick bits of metal in it's neck & electrocute it if you want. It seems many people do.

But personally I start off training using food treats in the house getting the dog to follow you at your side. If your dog isn't food driven use a favourite toy. Eventually they learn that being next to you is the best thing in the world. Do this for a few minutes every day and just before a walk. Once in the outside world which is obviously very different to your house, you teach the dog that pulling either results in stopping or turning around and pulling will eventually stop. Reward your dog with praise and/or treat when they are loose on the lead next to you regularly. 

Patience, be consistent. 

And if you think that I have a tiny dog, think again. I have a Great Dane, before that Irish Wolfhounds and Afghan Hounds.


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## bridget246

Deco said:


> Not sure if you have them in the US but many have moved away from the Gentle leader and shifted onto a dogmatic. Which doesn't ride up. Can't comment as I use a standard flat collar and always will.
> 
> The dog has learnt either from you or it's previous owner/s that pulling makes them go forward. Walking is a massively high reward and it is a very slow process to unlearn this behaviour. Obviously you can choke your dog, stick bits of metal in it's neck & electrocute it if you want. It seems many people do.
> 
> But personally I start off training using food treats in the house getting the dog to follow you at your side. If your dog isn't food driven use a favourite toy. Eventually they learn that being next to you is the best thing in the world. Do this for a few minutes every day and just before a walk. Once in the outside world which is obviously very different to your house, you teach the dog that pulling either results in stopping or turning around and pulling will eventually stop. Reward your dog with praise and/or treat when they are loose on the lead next to you regularly.
> 
> Patience, be consistent.
> 
> And if you think that I have a tiny dog, think again. I have a Great Dane, before that Irish Wolfhounds and Afghan Hounds.


I have no doubt that you had experience with larger dogs. We only use the prong for classes and stores. Today we are going on a nature walk with other dogs so the prong will be on. Otherwise I would leave the prong off and keep her beside me with treats. Works well enough outside. I've trained pretty well in areas of low to mid distractions. It is when we get into those highly distracting areas that she can not control herself in. I'm hoping to correct this behavior by getting her even more focused on me during walks than she was before. Going beyond not pulling to actually having her walk right beside me.


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## xellil

I was patient through six months, three trainers (both classroom and private lessons), a million treats, at least 10 different types of harnesses/headgear/collars, clicks, looks, touches.

If i hadn't decided to find a trainer to teach me how to use a prong collar (even though all the previous trainers didn't use them) we'd still be trying to get out of the driveway.


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## VizslaMama

doggiedad said:


> i taught my dog to heel (on either side with or without a leash).
> once my dog learned how to heel loose leash walking and walking
> without a leash was no problem. my dog was taught heel
> and loose leash walking usuing a flat collar. set up a training
> schedule. train in short sessions. conduct many sessions
> during the course od a day. my sessions last 5 to 10 minutes
> and always ending on a positive note. i train indoors
> and outside.


I never thought to teach the dog to heel first. I was always told it was an advanced command and that only when you pup walks on a loose leash can you introduce. 

Our pup is an 11mths pointer and still does not grasp the loose leash walking. He walks great in obedience classes, in the house when practicing. Is great off leash when on hikes(always sticks close and always returns) But when outside, leash attached, down goes his nose and it is glued there. 

We has resorted to the head halter, just to keep better control of his nose. We never tug because we know it can cause a neck injury. We always just stop or back up a bit then let him come back to me. If we don't have it on him, he pulls to no end with his nose down. 

We have trained with food rewards, training with peanut butter filled kongs, just a head pat. We start walking, if he stays beside me he gets a reward. If he walks ahead, like he mostly does, i stop or back up a bit, when he comes back my way and is by my side, I reward. Once that reward is given, no matter what it is, right back out front again, so I feel like he thinks the reward is for him coming back, not being by my side. The funny thing is, if I practice this inside - or in the back yard he picks up very quick and is walking beside me. It is when we are leaving the proptery and so on that he does this. 

He does better in doors than outside. He was doing so well in obedience class that we were picked to show everyone how he walks off leash around objects. He was amazing! Stayed right by my side the entire time (this was indoors) Can't get him to do this outside. We have obviously reinforced something with the outside methods. :mmph: 

Will mentioned - my boyfriends mom has always walked him when she could on her lunch hour. When I felt like we were making great progress, I always knew that she walked him that day. When I would take him out for a nightly walk - I was back to square one again - it was like he was never trained. I know her heart is in the right place, excerice is good for dogs, but dogs need consistancy. If she is letting him walk ahead of her - even if he isn't pulling - I feel like this would throw my training out the window. 

I know its never too late - but like everyone says - this has to be the most frustrating thing I have encounter with having him. I felt like he should have been able to walk great at an early age. High expectation - but he is in training mode every time I put that leash on. Yet no ground is being made..... that is very frustrating. 

I know what people are probably going to say but I will ask anyways.

Do we tell his mom that she can not walk him until we have trained him to walk at a heel? I don't want to offend her - and make her feel like she is a horrible person for letting him walk out front. We just know that the way they feel is, if the dog isn't pulling where they walk doesn't matter. For us - and a lot of people, this does. I feel you have full control over your dog, and that your dog is looking to you for direction - instead of the other way around.

With that said - Copper picks up on verbal command really fast. So perhaps teaching "heel" first is a good first step. 

If I go this route - does all leash walking cease until he has learnt it? I have never taught a dog to heel before. He gets enough exercise with off leash runs and dog plays that I am not concerned about not walking him. If anything, walks do not benefit him - excercise wise!! LOL but are good for him regardless.


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## bridget246

I taught Bridget to heel in certain areas and at least to obey me in others. So maybe I can give a little advice that is different than the norm. Dog pulls, fine, I'm going the other way. I can keep changing directions and giving out obedience commands with each turn. Walk with confidence, speak with confidence. Not mean, not loud, but confidence that you can lead. It isn't easy by any means. Oh, it is actually very hard to do. I doubt I would have ever had success with Bridget if I didn't try it out on other dogs first. Confidence is so important and so hard to gain on a stubborn dog that fights you at every step you take with them. Treats made her over excited. I saved them for the end of training to let her know that I appreciated the work regardless of the end result. 

I wouldn't have my mom walk the dog. I'd be afraid of their safety.


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## VizslaMama

bridget246 said:


> Treats made her over excited. I saved them for the end of training to let her know that I appreciated the work regardless of the end result.
> 
> I wouldn't have my mom walk the dog. I'd be afraid of their safety.


Good point - I will try limiting the treats. He does get over excited about them. If I keep the first sessions really short - a treat at the end won't seem like he is being ripped off and get frustrated. I hope he learns that if I do this... I get something at the end, when ever that may be. I have even started using his favourite toys when teaching new tricks. I may just use a toy as my lure and reward. 

If you want it you must work for it first! : ) Great idea. Thanks!


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## GoingPostal

Keep in mind, if you want your dog to heel the entire walk, you'd better be rewarding heavily and be greater than anything else, for a dog that really defeats the entire fun of a walk, which is sniffing and exploring. Obviously he's better inside or at training class, that's boring, old news, outside is crazy exciting new smells and things to see, you can't just up the distraction level like that. If he's walking nice in your yard, get someone to come in and be distracting, have a friend bring over a dog and see if he can ignore all that, when you start outside just do the street in front of your house or alley over and over at first. Personally if the dog isn't pulling I don't care if they walk ahead, I'm only out there for them so they might as well enjoy it, you can have them heel when you ask if needed. And no there's no need to wait to teach heel until loose leash walking is down, I think it's better to train heel off leash first anyways, I use a clicker and they pick it up pretty quick.


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## VizslaMama

GoingPostal said:


> Keep in mind, if you want your dog to heel the entire walk, you'd better be rewarding heavily and be greater than anything else, for a dog that really defeats the entire fun of a walk, which is sniffing and exploring. Obviously he's better inside or at training class, that's boring, old news, outside is crazy exciting new smells and things to see, you can't just up the distraction level like that. If he's walking nice in your yard, get someone to come in and be distracting, have a friend bring over a dog and see if he can ignore all that, when you start outside just do the street in front of your house or alley over and over at first. Personally if the dog isn't pulling I don't care if they walk ahead, I'm only out there for them so they might as well enjoy it, you can have them heel when you ask if needed. And no there's no need to wait to teach heel until loose leash walking is down, I think it's better to train heel off leash first anyways, I use a clicker and they pick it up pretty quick.


I should have mentioned - we do take frequent breaks when were are out and about on leash to let him sniff around. I guess that is not quite enough maybe. He has a tug toy he loves. I'll bring something fun along with us. 

I see it differently when you put it like that. Walking even if only 10mins is BORING if all he is doing is looking straight ahead. I will loosen up :tongue: 

No wonder he does so well off leash on our hikes, its fun so of course he will listen.


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## Liz

We teach a "watch" first so the pup learns to give eye contact and then we teach heel while watching literally one step at a time. By 5 steps we can start going 5 then ten, then fifteen steps and so on. It has made heeling so easy. We also have several different types of walk - heeling while watching is done for competition and in a very busy area. Let's go - we use for a nice walk where the dog stays with in his 6 feet and does not pull - once in a while during a walk he is called back in a heel just to keep him sharp. We give no command when they are on a 20 foot or more as they are pretty free to just play and explore - they never get to far away before checking back on me. Oh, because we are training for obedience no one except me uses the "heel" command so that they are never confused - my family walks them with a "let's go".


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## bridget246

Yes is my release word for Bridget to go explore. It is a reward in itself. We do it in different areas. Some people around me hate seeing dogs in their yard. Others hate seeing larger dogs in their yard. Which makes sense because we have so many people out here who do not clean up after their dogs that I don't want to see a dog sniffing around my yard. This is where heeling comes into play. It gets the dog to focus on me and not anything else. I will give out random commands during our walks that may not all be verbial. Every reward isn't a treat. Toys, pats on the head, srcatches behind the air, good jobs are all rewards that I give out. Treats and a few toys are huge Bridget disctractions so I save those to the end.

I have a clicker but I don't keep up with it enough to make use of it. My voice is always with me so I use that to check progress. I'm sure the clicker training is useful I just found I personally wasn't bringing with me consitently enough to use it while training. VizslaMama, I think your on a great start toward progress. This keep doing what your doing and give it time. 

I just got Molly yesterday. She knew 0 commands. She is already doing well with heeling. Molly is really eager to learn and please. Her last owner gave her no attention so she does whatever it takes to get mines. Every dog is going to be different. I believe those who are wishing to learn will get a feel for what works with their dogs by reading all the helpful suggestions from this thread. Their is planty of great suggestions here so I'm hoping that at least one of them will work for every dog.


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## VizslaMama

This is why I love this thread and this entire forum! So many great tips and advice, that you are bound to find something that works for you and your dog.


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## StdPooDad

Please, throw the prong collar far, far away. Use something like a Premier Easy walk harness.

Lots of redirection. When I was teaching my guys we might walk 2 miles and only go 100 yards. If they surge ahead, just do a 180 and go the other way. Dogs pull because it gets them what they want. If they pull forward and you keep going forward, Whoo Hoo! They win! 

Home Depot is great for that. I love training my dogs in Home Depot.

Joe


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## StdPooDad

Curious, why "pop the leash and say ah-ah" Why not just move in the opposite direction and be done with it?
Joe



KittyKat said:


> . If she tried to go in another direction i'd just pop the leash and say "ah-ah" and move in the opposite direction she tried to head in.


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## StdPooDad

I really like the treats, treats, treats part of your post.
Joe



xellil said:


> Lots of treats. Billions of treats. My pockets were dribbling treats everywhere.
> 
> And then once you start, you can't just walk. You have to keep them focused on you pretty much 100% of the time - I just asked him to come, stay, sit, sit heel, whatever commands I wasn't sick of. And treat, treat, treat.
> 
> Worked pretty well for us.


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