# Questions to ask a breeder?



## cprcheetah (Jul 14, 2010)

I will be starting my search for a breeder for a puppy for the spring or so and want to get a "Naturally Reared" puppy (raw fed, no vaccs/chemicals etc), and want to know what are some good questions to ask the breeder? I know rescuing is the good thing, but I honestly cannot go through what I have just gone through, (unknown history, unknown health issues time bomb waiting to go off). I have a breeder that I am thinking about who has Min Pins and they are Naturally Reared, health tested and she has a lifetime guarantee against genetic health issues....so I think that is AWESOME! What types of questions should I ask?


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## Maxy24 (Mar 5, 2011)

I think it's important to ask what they think qualifies a dog to be bred. What must it's temperament be like, what sort of health standards must the dogs meet, that sort of thing. Ask what would disqualify a dog from being bred. The most important things to ME are that the breeding dogs have been screened for common genetic diseases (I don't know what those are for Min Pins, do you? I know a lot of small breeds have luxating patella and eye disorders but many breeds have their own unique disorders so you might want to look at those and ask what they are doing to address those diseases in their own dogs) and that they do something to ensure their dogs have good temperaments. In some breeds this means sports or work (from obedience to agility to sheep herding), in others it means a temperament test through the American Temperament Tests Society or Therapy dog certifications. So find out what they are doing to make sure their dogs have the proper breed temperament, whatever that may be. Also make sure they are willing to take the dog back at any point in it's lifetime if you cannot keep him.

Also make sure you can live with their contract. Some have requirements for confinement (no tie outs, which they often choose to call chaining), neutering (most require it but usually vary on age), feeding, what you can and can't do if you no longer want/can't keep the dog, and other things like that. 

I'm sure there are lots of other things that I can't think of right now, but health and temperament are always first in my mind when contacting a breeder and I'd like some assurance they are doing something to ensure both of those things are good in their breeding dogs.

I'm very sorry you had a bad rescue dog experience, I hope you find what you're looking for this time around!


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## cprcheetah (Jul 14, 2010)

Thank-you. So far the breeder I am looking at seems great, naturally reared is what I really really want. I've been wanting a NR'd puppy for a while now. Health is of the utmost importance to me, I've had 3 walking genetic messes of dogs....and would LOVE to have one that is 'healthy' all the way around....actually I don't think I would know what to do with myself lol. I like the fact she keeps the puppies until they are 12 weeks old, gives them more 'socialization' with the mom/litter. I will ask about spaying/neutering as I feel they do benefit from their hormones. I think you have some great questions that I didn't even think about as far as why they bred that particular dog etc. Both parents are Champions which to me is somewhat important to me as well as to me that means the dogs must be somewhat of a good 'example' of the breed (although not always true).


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## KlaMarie (Dec 30, 2010)

I wanted a copy of the actual contract (health warranty) I was going to sign in advance, if you don't already have it. Because once you've been matched with a puppy and its time to actually sign the papers, if you come upon something that isn't right..... it's going to be REALLY hard to walk away. 

Does the breeder offer to take back the pup/dog if it is unwanted by its owners? And have they had this happen before? If so, for what reason and how did they handle it. 

I also wanted information regarding previous litters from the dam and sire of the litter I was considering. I wanted to see the results for any health testing pups from the previous litter had, information on titles, etc. You can have two dogs that have perfect health tests and breed them, and they will throw pups with health issues and/or incorrect temperaments. The results from any previous litters, even if the litter is from only the sire or only the dam, will give you a better idea of what the dogs will throw. 
Also get health testing info from grandparents, great-grandparents, etc if available. And any siblings of the dam and sire. If the dam of the litter your considering is the only one out of her litter to pass health screenings......that's a red flag for possible underlying flaws she could throw to her own pups. 

How is each litter raised in the 8-9 weeks they are at the breeders? What type of socialization and exposure will they be getting? Does the breeder do any type of formal temperament tests?

How often will they breed a female? Will they breed a female in back-to-back heats? (I don't like that)


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## Liz (Sep 27, 2010)

Well, when people come to me I like them to ask lots of questions. Here are some that show me they have done their homework. 
1 - What health clearances are necessary and have they been done on the parents and grandparents.
2 - What is the longevity of the line
3 - What do you look for in a breeding dog - besides physically adapting to the standard
4 - Why di you hope to produce from this breeding
5 - What particular health issues have arisen in your lines or are your dogs prone to
6 - What happens if a pup is affected by (-_____) disorder. What is the guarantee? Is the puppy returned? Can puppy stay and purchase price be refunded? 
7 - DO you do vaccinations? Why? WHy not?
8 - What topicals do you use? Flea, etc.
9 - What exactly do you feed?
10 - Why are you a natural rearing breeder and what does that entail> 
I have to go now but that is a start. What breed are you looking at?


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## KlaMarie (Dec 30, 2010)

How could I forget. Get references! And call them to find out what their experience with the breeder was like.

Also find out what steps they take towards getting the pups used to crating and alone time while they have them. Because this.....



cprcheetah said:


> I like the fact she keeps the puppies until they are 12 weeks old, gives them more 'socialization' with the mom/litter.


I would want some more specifics. Do your own independent research on this, because what I know is coming from the GSD/working dog prespective. 

I've been warned too much time with the rest of the litter after 8-10 weeks, if not separated out at least a couple hours each day, can be detrimental to a puppy. Sometimes, leaving them to occupy themselves with each other is a lazy way to keep them busy, without the people actually handling the pups. After 9-10 weeks, I want the puppy with ME (or at least people) much more than with its siblings or mom. Personally I think they learn enogh social skills by that age, and I want to start getting the dog more attached to human interaction than dog interaction. 

But that just my opinion :smile:


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## RCTRIPLEFRESH5 (Feb 11, 2010)

make sure whoever you buy from is not a total prick. Thankfully all of he breeders were complete pricks to us and we adopted Winston , but since you want a puppy,make sure they give you all the answers to your questions. Breeders usually are the least people oriented people ive dealt with.
idk what breed you are looking for but research all of the diseases that breed has and make sure the parents have proof that they are clear. Ask if you can have a tour of the breding grounds and ask to meet the parents. Ask how long they've been doing it, and why? i'm pretty sure if you find a naturally reared breeder they will be plenty reputable and caring and in it for the love of the breed. I think you are limiting yourself by searching naturally reared. I dont think vaccinations for the first 8weeks will hurt ur dog, but of course we all have our qualms...i am against tick products, while others on here use the so we each have our own concerns.
that reminds e wisnton's almost due for his bi monthly heartworm


cprcheetah said:


> I will be starting my search for a breeder for a puppy for the spring or so and want to get a "Naturally Reared" puppy (raw fed, no vaccs/chemicals etc), and want to know what are some good questions to ask the breeder? I know rescuing is the good thing, but I honestly cannot go through what I have just gone through, (unknown history, unknown health issues time bomb waiting to go off). I have a breeder that I am thinking about who has Min Pins and they are Naturally Reared, health tested and she has a lifetime guarantee against genetic health issues....so I think that is AWESOME! What types of questions should I ask?


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## cprcheetah (Jul 14, 2010)

Liz said:


> Well, when people come to me I like them to ask lots of questions. Here are some that show me they have done their homework.
> 1 - What health clearances are necessary and have they been done on the parents and grandparents.
> 2 - What is the longevity of the line
> 3 - What do you look for in a breeding dog - besides physically adapting to the standard
> ...


Awesome questions. As for breed(s) I am looking at I would like another Miniature Pinscher, but on our list of breeds are Min Pins, Chihuahuas, Toy Poodles, Sheltie, hubby wants maybe Bichon or Doxie...still researching though (I wouldn't mind a big dog like a Standard poodle), but I am open to any breed that would fit well in our lifestyle and family....but Naturally Rearing is very important to me. My husbands criteria: As hypoallergenic as we can handle (have tested him with all of the above breeds and he's fine with them), doesn't shed a ton, and a dog that is content to just chill/relax (in other words not a nutty nut like Shellie).



KlaMarie said:


> How could I forget. Get references! And call them to find out what their experience with the breeder was like.
> 
> Also find out what steps they take towards getting the pups used to crating and alone time while they have them. Because this.....
> 
> ...


With Toy breeds the research I've done says it's better to get them at about 10-12 weeks old, as the extra time with mom is important. Toy dogs are prone to hypoglycemia which can kill them.



RCTRIPLEFRESH5 said:


> make sure whoever you buy from is not a total prick. Thankfully all of he breeders were complete pricks to us and we adopted Winston , but since you want a puppy,make sure they give you all the answers to your questions. Breeders usually are the least people oriented people ive dealt with.
> idk what breed you are looking for but research all of the diseases that breed has and make sure the parents have proof that they are clear. Ask if you can have a tour of the breding grounds and ask to meet the parents. Ask how long they've been doing it, and why? i'm pretty sure if you find a naturally reared breeder they will be plenty reputable and caring and in it for the love of the breed. I think you are limiting yourself by searching naturally reared. I dont think vaccinations for the first 8weeks will hurt ur dog, but of course we all have our qualms...i am against tick products, while others on here use the so we each have our own concerns.
> that reminds e wisnton's almost due for his bi monthly heartworm


All it takes it 1 vaccination to ruin a dogs health (from my research) so I would prefer a breeder who has dogs with "Natural Immunity". I have researched this long and hard and I feel comfortable with my decision. I have worked for vet(s) for 20+ years so this is definitely something I have not chosen to do lightly.


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## Liz (Sep 27, 2010)

I agree to definately keep a pup with siblings and mom until about 10 - 12 weeks. DO make sure he is being socialized to people of all ages and any other dogs in the household, as well as cats, and any other pet they have in the home. I like a puppy to have some crate training, walk on a leash (around the house and backyard). We do not vaccinate our pups, or use any topicals. Even worms are treated holistically. Find out how the pups are handled as they mature - what is their schedule like? We with shelties and collies we start crate training and leash work by 5 weeks old. Every one starts going for car rides by 6 weeks and visiting safe places and friends. We have not vaccinated in about 7 years and have not had any problems - we go to shows and handling classes as well as take the dogs everywhere we go. No issues so far.


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## Maxy24 (Mar 5, 2011)

If you type the some of the breeder's dogs names (full registered names not including any titles) into this website (the box on the left): Orthopedic Foundation for Animals
it should tell you some of the health clearances they have.


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## Dude and Bucks Mamma (May 14, 2011)

I didn't read all of the posts so I am sorry if some of my questions have already been said. I had several months to think of all the questions I wanted to ask but I'll write what I can remember. 

As far as parents being champions... It depends on the breed. If it something like a coonhound, where they are still primarily used for their job rather than bred for the ring, then it wouldn't matter to me if the parents are champions or not. Most of the dogs you see in the ring are hunted and came from hunting stock. Buck's sire is not championed but is close to being a Nite Champion. One of his grandsires is a Conformation Champion. That grandsire's parents are both Grand Nite Champions and are Conformation Grand Champions. All 4 dogs that created the previous 2 are Grand Nite Champions. It looks similar on his dam's side. Both his sire and dam are "active duty" hunting dogs. Haha.

Nick and I are planning on getting a neapolitan mastiff (eventually)... I am not so sure that I want the sire and dam to be "Champions" due to what the show ring has done to the breed. When we get a neo, we will likely go with a dog that would do horribly in the show ring since we would do our best to find a breeder who has maintained the actual war dog look. They look similar to, IMO, the Cane Corso. Loose skin, but not hanging skin. The show bred neos just have too many health problems.

I would definitely ask about the contract to make sure that you can agree to it for the entirety of the dog's life. Buck didn't come with one. His breeder is an old fashioned houndsman and, while he doesn't give his pups to just anyone who wants one, he is of the belief that, in his words, "The dog is yours, not mine. Who am I to tell you what you can and can't do with your dog?" But he does love the pups dearly and I did have to answer many questions when inquiring about his pups. He does his best to stay in touch with whoever he sells pups to. Speaking of which, he wants pictures of my boy! And of course, I will proudly send them to him. 

Buck's breeder is one of the good ones who is completely willing to answer any questions you may have about your dog no matter how old he is. At 8 months old, I still get emails from time to time from Ray to see how Buck is doing. A breeder should always be willing and open to any questions or concerns you may have throughout the dog's life or even if you just need help with something.

I personally don't like co-ownerships with the breeder. There are always too many requirements that I am not comfortable with. Especially when it gets into who has breeding rights... I keep my dogs intact but I don't necessarily want to breed them. Maybe Buck later if he turns out to be an excellent bluetick that would help the breed, but if not, then no babies for him. If he was, then it would be a litter or two just to get his genes out there but he will never be a full fledged stud regardless of how well he does in the ring.

You know what, I just read Liz's questions and, with her BEING a breeder, she is probably one of the best people to ask. hahaha.


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## Sprocket (Oct 4, 2011)

What does a "lifetime guarantee for genetic health issues" entail?

Do that mean they will pay for treatment of the dog does get a genetic health issue or does it mean that they will "replace" the sick dog and euthanize the old?


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## twoisplenty (Nov 12, 2008)

Ahh Sprocket, great question! Most breeders will only cover up to the purchase price of the dog when a health issue arises. Alot of breeders require medical proof such as x-rays, seeing a specialist etc AND the return of the dog prior to fulfilling a health guarantee. I would also ask if they have ever had to fulfil a health guarantee. So it is important to clarify these things with your breeder prior to getting a puppy.

Since you have had 3 genetic disasters, my main advice would be to make sure you purchase your dog off of a reputable breeder who thoroughly health tests for the conditions that affect your breed. I would also ask about longevity of parents, grandparents and if there have been any issues in ANY of their previous litters. Any breeder who claims they have never had a health issue is lying and that would be a red flag for me. 

Though Natural rearing is great, it doesnt mean much if your new puppy doesnt come from solid health tested lines.


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## Caty M (Aug 13, 2010)

I might also ask *why* they do no vaccinations. I am a firm believer in natural rearing, but the breeder should know their stuff.

Get a sheltie and get one from Liz! :wink:


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## Liz (Sep 27, 2010)

The vaccination and natural rearing are important and that is why you should ask them exactly what that entails for them. There are no hard and fast rules about what make a natural rearing breeder. For me they feed raw, are non vaccinating, do no topicals, Heartworm is more a personal thing but we do not use heartworm (plus we are in a low incidence area) and is all care possible holistic/homepathic. Raising is also part of the package for me - I want the pup raised in a home with the adults dogs as examples, basic obedience training, tons of socialization, crate training, leash training and car rides. Exposure to mild stress is expected such as long flights of stairs, sliding doors, electric doors at a store, shopping carts, strange outfits - hats, umbrellas, etc. Anyway that is just me.


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## Celt (Dec 27, 2010)

Liz, if i ever wanted a collie or sheltie, I would beg you for one of your pups. You sound like a outstanding breeder.


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## cprcheetah (Jul 14, 2010)

Caty M said:


> I might also ask *why* they do no vaccinations. I am a firm believer in natural rearing, but the breeder should know their stuff.
> 
> Get a sheltie and get one from Liz! :wink:


Ha Ha, it's funny you say that. My dear friend who trains dogs, told me that she sees me with a "tri-color" sheltie as a service dog for my anxiety/panic disorder. She doesn't know why she sees it that way but that's what she sees. My husbands concern is the shedding....he has a friend with two little sables, but they are loaded with vax/chemicals and fed a craptastic diet. I know Shellie my golden doesn't shed as much as a 'kibble' fed golden does. I had a sheltie way back when and I loved her to pieces. Also grew up with a tri-color collie we got from a show breeder, but her eyes were too narrow so she wasn't able to be shown. Shaleigh was an awesome dog. We lost her to rimadyl (sudden organ collapse/shut down) but that was back in 1999 ish I want to say.


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## Caty M (Aug 13, 2010)

Bishop doesn't shed too badly at all, in fact I notice Tess's hair more. I do brush him every other day while I'm watching tv for maybe 10 minutes. All in all I would say my cats shed far far more than either dog.


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## cprcheetah (Jul 14, 2010)

Caty M said:


> Bishop doesn't shed too badly at all, in fact I notice Tess's hair more. I do brush him every other day while I'm watching tv for maybe 10 minutes. All in all I would say my cats shed far far more than either dog.


That's what I told him and hey I do groom dogs part time so um....yeah I could take care of that lol.


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## CorgiPaws (Mar 31, 2009)

You're getting good answers as far as specific questions, but I think the best thing you can do is really research. Figure out what YOU specifically want and then find a breeder that suits your needs. 
If you ask 100 people what they look for, you will get 100 different answers. So, before you can ask a breeder questions, you have to ask yourself first.

1. Where do you stand on conformation titles? Is it important to you that the parents have them?
2. Where do you stand on other titles, like agility, herding, etc.? Is it important that the parents have them?
3. What age do you feel it's appropriate to bring your puppy home? 8, 10, 12, etc. weeks?
4. What kind of environment do you want your puppy raised in? Home with kids? farm? 
5. Where do you stand on vaccines? Do you want your pup to have them? 
6. What purpose will your puppy fulfill? working? companionship?
7. What health ailments plague your breed? Are they testable? What tests are important to you?
8. How many litters do you think is acceptable for a bitch to have?
9. Do you think it's ok to breed back to back to back? (some people do, oddly)
10. What are the ost important traits you want in your puppy? Do the parents have these?


If you don't have an answer/opinion based off of personal experience/ research, then you need to get on that. Before you can find a breeder that suits you, you have to know where YOU stand on things. 
I know what I think of ALL of these, but telling you that doesn't mean you'd get what YOU want. 
One thing I will say, is for whatever question you ask, get the how's and why's, too.


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## cprcheetah (Jul 14, 2010)

Putting this down in typing, so I can truly focus on finding a good breeder/best puppy for me:
1. Where do you stand on conformation titles? Is it important to you that the parents have them? I feel it is important but not necessarily required as long as they meet the breed standard and are excellent specimens of the breed. One of my friends all time Top Producing Shih Tzu's isn't a champion because she wouldn't hold her tail up in the ring, to date she has 6 puppies out of her that have finished their championship. 

2. Where do you stand on other titles, like agility, herding, etc.? Is it important that the parents have them? I like to go for the 'all around' package, depending on breed, if I were looking at a Sheltie for example, herding instincts would be important in the parents, but not required since my puppy is just going to be a service dog/pet.

3. What age do you feel it's appropriate to bring your puppy home? 8, 10, 12, etc. weeks?

Depending on the breed I think 10-12 weeks at least is ideal to get more socialization/interdog skills from their mom & siblings.

4. What kind of environment do you want your puppy raised in? Home with kids? farm? Preferably home, I have done the kennel dog thing twice now (recently found out Shellie came from a petstore as well originally in Tennessee (contacted her orginal owner to see where exactly she came from).....and both dogs were not properly socialized and had nutty tendancies. Farm style would be important if I were going for herding. I don't have kids but may someday so if they have kids that would be great...but not required as I have nieces/nephews I can socialize the puppy with.

5. Where do you stand on vaccines? Do you want your pup to have them? No I do not want my pups to have vaccines and would prefer the parents weren't vaccinated either as vaccinosis can be inherited.

6. What purpose will your puppy fulfill? working? companionship?
I would love to get into obedience/agility, but mostly companionship and service dog for my anxiety/depression issues. 

7. What health ailments plague your breed? Are they testable? What tests are important to you?
Again depends on the breed, CERF is important, Hips/knees in smaller breeds, some breeds Cardiac certification. I haven't pinpointed the exact breed, although we are really leaning towards Shelties and Min Pins.
So for Shelties:
Required tests to get a CHIC #

Hip dysplasia evaluation (OFA or PennHIP)
Eye clearance (Canine Eye Registration Foundation, CERF)
Plus at least 2 from the elective test list below:
Elective tests:

von Willebrand's Disease (VetGen, test results registered with the OFA)
Multiple drug sensitivity (MDR1) DNA test (Washington State University, results registered with the OFA)
Autoimmune thyroiditis (OFA evaluation from an approved laboratory, test results registered with the OFA)
Collie eye anomaly DNA test (Optigen, test results registered with the OFA)
Elbow dysplasia evaluation (OFA)
Optional tests:

Congenital cardiac database (OFA evaluation by board certified cardiologist or internal medicine specialist)
American Temperament Testing Society, TT title, (test results registered with the OFA)

& Min Pins: the concerns are: patellar luxation, cervical (dry) disc, legg-calve perthes, epilepsy, thyroid, heart defects and eye problems in varying degrees of severity

8. How many litters do you think is acceptable for a bitch to have? I would say no more than 3 but again depends on the dog and how they handle breeding.

9. Do you think it's ok to breed back to back to back? (some people do, oddly) I am torn on this as I have heard reproductive specialists say it's best to breed back to back then rest a cycle then breed again. But again it would depend on how the dog handles the pregnancy/delivery. Ideally would be every other cycle (once a year).

10. What are the most important traits you want in your puppy? Do the parents have these?
Well socialized, healthy, naturally reared. Good aptitude for being a service dog, great temperament for the breed.


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